The old bits on their way to storage.
New bits and brackets. A Lucas high output single phase alternator and a Trispark ignition already reside in the Beezer.
My first order of business was to decide what to keep and what to put away. I already had a Trispark ignition, Lucas high output single phase alternator, Podtronics regulator, and an LED headlight (blown and in need of replacing).
- Make a new wiring diagram and harness
- Negative ground (It's a US thing & the LED hi & lo beams will work - no arguments please)
- Battery free system
- Kill button (I always wondered why they stopped putting these on)
- Bosch 12V horn and kill switch relays
- Trispark dual lead coil
- Marine grade 25 amp toggle on-off switch
- Fuse box
- 12V power port
- Custom brackets to hold the new bits
- Lucas connectors. Crimp for blade and solder for bullets
- 16 GA wire
I started by creating a new wiring diagram based on the factory diagram converted to negative ground and the one I made for my Hornet. Some of the harness was reused. The handlebar switch, headlight, tail light, and gauge bulb leads to be specific. They were cleaned up and silicone greased to prevent corrosion. I used solder type Lucas bullets and crimp type spades to connect all of the bits and ran a common ground back to a post for most things. I also checked continuity between the engine and frame to make sure it was grounded well.
Lights ready to go after a bit of a stumble with the oil pressure sensor. The toggle was also not working properly and required a blast of cleaner to get it back in order.
My second bike with a Tri-Spark ignition.....a great product in my opinion. Connections soldered to prevent issues. NGK suppression caps and a dual lead 12V Tri-Spark coil round out the system.
Hooking up a battery and testing things out.
I fiddled with the wiring diagram and purchased bits throughout the fall. The Christmas Holiday work break was a great opportunity to tackle this project. (My plan ran afoul when I ran out of connectors and had to move on to my mechanical fixes) Although it will run battery free I hooked one up to test it out. Everything appears to work fine; lights come on, spark is strong (even with no battery), and the brake lights work. The real test will not happen until spring when I get it on the road. If engine "missing" issues persist new Amal Premiers will be fitted. I have heard good things about them and am itching to give them a go if needed.
The final version of my diagram which works on the bench (road test to follow).
I may tweak the fuses down a bit.
This post is a follow up to my foibles documented in the previous post: